Did you know that UVA and UVB rays are consistently present even on cloudy days.
Education for protection and prevention
As a Skincare Specialist and Educator, each brand I have previously worked for would always have the addition of a sun protection range in their product collection, but up until recently these brands are now raising awareness and focusing the importance of sunscreen becoming your number one anti-ageing prevention must have. A product that was once reserved for only the sunniest of days or for holidays by the beach are now being promoted as part of your daily wear skin care routine.
Education needs to begin at a younger age. We should be teaching the next generation the facts and 'know how' regarding the vital benefits of protecting our skin health and prevention from unnecessary damage of healthy skin cells.
Cumulative sun exposure causes mainly basal cell and squamous cell skin cancer, whilst according to Cancer Research UK, if you subject your skin to sunburn every two years you triple the risk of melanoma skin cancer. This can be prevented by simply enjoying the sun safely and avoiding sun beds.
The suns rays will also contribute towards skin ageing by breaking down collagen and elastin, resulting in fine lines and wrinkles. Over exposure of the suns rays can also result in pigmentation through the production of melanin. Melanin is the brown pigment that causes tanning and is one of the bodies protective mechanisms that can stop you from burning. However, this does mean that as soon as the skin tans, damage has occurred to skin cells through the exposure of UV radiation.
We associate the above with the visual attributes of accelerated skin ageing so by practicing safe sun exposure we can now look to prevent and reduce skin cell damage.
Skincare Active Ingredients
The combination of the increased use of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) in our home skincare routines and salon treatments focused on skin exfoliation such as microdermabrasion and facial peels, can make our skin more sensitised. The result is supercharged cell renewal that brings healthy skin cells to the surface, these can become more vulnerable when exposed to UV radiation and damage is easily detected if suitable protection is not applied.
What are UV Rays?
Ultraviolet radiation (a type of electromagnetic radiation) can contribute to skin cell damage. The most common source is from the sun but can also be detected in artificial sources such as sunbeds and tanning lamps.
UV radiation can cause the skin to burn, increase melanin production in the melanocytes (the skin cells that produce pigment) producing what we know as a tan. An increase in eye damage and skin cancer can also be the result of pro longed exposure to these rays.
UV A rays remain relatively high in the UK all year round, even penetrating window glass. UVA rays contribute largely towards skin Ageing. These rays penetrate through the Epidermis (the top layer of the skin) down towards the dermis (where the blood vessels, collagen and elastin fibres are found). These rays will break down these fibres causing premature ageing.
UV B rays fluctuate depending upon the seasonal changes, time of day and your location. They are responsible for causing superficial burning to the epidermis associated with over exposure to the sun, playing a role in the development of skin cancer tanning and photoaging (lines and wrinkles).
However, UVB rays are also responsible for the production of vitamin D, which is essential for regulating calcium and phosphate levels in the body. You can however, require this vitamin from supplements and some food sources.
How do I know which sunscreen is right for me?
It does come down to personal preference.
Choose a formulation that reflects your skin type and needs.
Oil free, mattifying and non-comedogenic formulations are ideal for oily and acne prone skin types.
Light-weight lotions or gel textures are perfect for oily to normal skin types.
Those with a drier skin may prefer a richer formula with added hydration ingredients.
Sensitised skin may opt for a mineral or physical based sunscreen where zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can provide less irritation then some chemical based formulas.
Top Tips
Use a sunscreen that is broad spectrum and provides both UVA and UVB protection
Use an SPF 30 this generally blocks out 97% of UVB rays.
An SPF 50 will block out 98%. This was a surprising fact I learnt only a few years ago!
Try to implement a separate sunscreen to that found in your cosmetics (foundations/CC creams) as these do not provide adequate protection especially when UV radiation is at its peak through the summer months
Apply half a teaspoon of your sunscreen to your face, ears and neck apply more if your décolletage is exposed
Remember to reapply your sunscreen throughout the day to prevent burning
Chemical vs Mineral (physical) Sunscreen Formulations
Again this is down to personal preference and what works for you and your individual beliefs regarding ingredient integrity.
Chemical sunscreen ingredients are formulated to penetrate down into the dermal layer of the skin as well as the epidermal, absorbing the UVA and UVB rays before they cause damage to the skin cells.
You must apply this at least 20 minutes prior to sun exposure to ensure the ingredients are functioning the way they are designed to.
Most chemical based sunscreens are accompanied by antioxidants to ensure skin is protected against free radical damage. Vitamin C is usually a popular choice. Some ingredients you may come across in your chemical sunscreens are; Avobenzone, Cinoxate, Dioxybenzone, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Octinoxate and Oxybennzone.
Mineral/Physical Sunscreens act a barrier on top of the epidermal layer. They are designed to bounce the UVA and UVB rays off of the skin surface before they get a chance to penetrate the skin cells.
Once you apply these products you are instantly protected and can go out in the sun straight away.
Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are the two ingredients that work against both UV rays. These ingredients were once known to leave a noticeable white mask-like residue over the skin, however, with advanced formulations they have now been micronized to ensure the sheerest formula possible.
Some Sunscreens can also possess a hybrid formula that contain a fusion of both physical and mineral ingredients.
With so many new additions to the sunscreen family being made available from leading skin and body care brands, it can be hard to find one that suits your skin concerns and needs and will usually come down to trial and error.
What are you current sunscreen protection products? Do you use them all year round?
