Skincare through the Ages How to care for your skin

The realisation has hit me, by my next birthday I will be on the other side of 35! I start to reflect upon how plump and youthful my skin appeared in photos taken in my early twenties (something I totally took for granted)! The subtle changes that happened through my 20s seem to now embody more noticeable transitions of age.....thinner skin around the eyes, complexion appears dull and flat rather than radiant and glowing and as for those (pesky) lines, well they are looking a little bit deeper!

I look at my mum in her 50s and she has amazing skin and not that many wrinkles at all (praying and keeping everything crossed I inherit those skin loving genes!) So how do we prevent, protect and maintain our skin through the ages, to ensure collagen and elastin are in abundance and that we hold on to that youthful glow?

The skin and ageing

Our skin is our largest organ and a reflection of our life experiences ~ the good and not so good. Expression lines become deeper and more noticeable. However, they tell a story.....my concentration face is strong and represented by me frowning...a lot! I frown when I’m driving, reading, eating you name it, those lines are becoming more apparent as I grow older and I’m not sure if I like it!

Our skin, especially on our face, décolleté and hands seem to be the most exposed and vulnerable to the environmental elements, therefore, resulting in accelerated ageing. Sun (UV exposure), wind, cold, humidity, chemicals, pollution and heating can all affect the skins barrier function and that’s why skincare can play such a vital part. It allows us to restore and regenerate the skin - guiding us educationally to the importance of why we need to take care of our skin.

When our skin is in its prime and functioning optimally it will usually renew itself every 28 days, this is known as our skin cell cycle. As we age, this renewal process slows down as does the collagen and elastin formation, which can lead to dull, lack lustre and loss of volume concerns.

I thought it would be interesting to look at our pivotal beauty ‘ages’ identifying the concerns that we may want to treat and address with key products and specific ingredients. Some of these will cross over so use this as a general guide to what your routine could be missing!

Skin needs in your 20s

By your mid twenties skin starts to become more sensitised to things like stress and it begins to visibly show on the surface.

Collagen levels reduce by 1-2% each year once we approach our mid twenties

Research has shown that collagen levels begin to descend by 1-2% each year, the main culprit is UV exposure. It’s imperative to educate everyone on the purpose and importance of sunscreen. It is vital in protecting our skin cells and preventing skin damage in our latter years.

A great introduction to an anti ageing ingredient is to use a vitamin c based product. A powerful antioxidant that will neutralise free radicals and protect against damage. It also has a connection to collagen production.

Moisturising - invest in a hyaluronic acid infused one! Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance which is present within our body already. It helps to retain 1000 times it’s on weight in water. When looking at your ingredient list, this sometimes appears as Sodium Hyaluronate (a water soluble salt form of hyaluronic acid) and should be one of the first ingredients listed to indicate it’s effectiveness. I remember being told by a skincare expert whilst training “Don't overlook your neck area it is an extension of your face”. When massaging in your face serum and cream, continue to glide this over the neck and decollate area! Always follow with your SPF.....

.....Your 50 year old self will thank you for it!

Skin needs in your 30s

Cell renewal starts to slow down and our skin needs additional assistance to blast away those dead skin cells with ingredients such as AHAs ~ these will be your answer to smoother, more even toned, radiant looking skin.

Begin using AHAs to resurface and minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles

Retinol could even be introduced as early as 25, however, I only started using retinol last year, when I felt my skin care routine needed to change direction. Restoring a focus on treating and future proofing my skin!

Peptides can be a great way to support collagen function. Ceramides are critical for skin barrier function and help prevent trans epidermal water loss.

Hyaluronic Acid will help retain hydration levels and keep skin looking supple.

Begin to massage in your products with intention to boost blood flow and reduce stress levels. Start to explore alternative ways to implement exercise. Maybe a beginners level for Yoga or Pilates.

Skin needs in your 40s

Skincare in your 40s is about both treatment whilst still addressing prevention.

The loss of subcutaneous fat and ever decreasing collagen levels, will cause the skin to drop and lack volume

This is especially noticeable in the jaw and cheek area. Focus on facial massage techniques to help lift and stimulate blood flow and oxygenation to help plump those facial tissues.

Collagen infused supplements and skincare may help to support collagen formation. Peptides and antioxidants will still remain an important feature in your skincare routine. Retinols also can be applied working up from a more potent strength from what you used in your 20s or 30s to ensure the reduction in the appearance of fine line and wrinkles, while helping to increase cell turnover. Retinols and AHAs are also good for targeting age spots or pigmentation by encouraging cell renewal and brightening the overall complexion.

Ensure you are investing in enough quality sleep and focus on an eye product with nurturing ingredients as well as hyaluronic acid and retinol.

Skin needs in your 50s and beyond

The menopause may make its self known around this time in your life, bringing with it some unwanted skin conditions. Lowered estrogen levels result in less production and repair of collagen and elastin in the dermis of the skin.

Collagen will continue to decrease and the skin will begin to appear crepey (thin and finely wrinkled like crepe paper). As the skin becomes more fragile, think about giving it some additional TLC and invest in regular facial treatment, focusing on lifting massage techniques, professional peels and increasing hydration.

The skin tends to become drier as the skin barrier is less effective at retaining moisture

Humectants and occlusives with ceramides and hyaluronic acids will help to rehydrate and plump the skin.

Antioxidants become depleted so a higher concentration is needed to protect and repair the skin.

Thinning skin around the eyes will make them appear more sunken and prone to dark circles. A great eye brow shape, tint and lash lift can also do wonders for opening the eye area.

In Summary

Please remember this is just a guide to help educate you in what you could be using as part of your skincare routine. However, as I mentioned before lifestyle choices, genetics, diet and medication can all influence the way our skin reacts and responds primarily to inflammatory factors which can make your skin age faster.

Key Ingredients to look for

Chemical or Physical Sun Protection

Hyaluronic Acid

Glycerin

Retinol

Vitamin C

AHAs

Antioxidants

Ceramides

Peptides

Lifestyle tips to help improve your skin

Do not smoke