Many clients have come to me in the past and asked me for the secret to diminishing the appearance of their dark under eye circles. Unfortunately, their is no magic potion, lotion or cream that can make them disappear. However, a good concealer and application technique can come close!
There are many factors that contribute towards those dark circles and sometimes they can not simply be erased. They can really make you feel and appear as if you are constantly tired, so lets delve into the understanding as to why dark circles are formed and the causes of them, with solutions to making them look less visible.
Why do I have dark circles under my eyes?
This is the most commonly asked question when it comes to treating the eye area, along with how do I get rid of them?
As a skin specialist, it is important to consult with your client, asking key questions to build up a client profile for a better understanding of lifestyle habits, medical history, and diet. By asking these questions you become more adapt to finding a customised solution that suits each person.
Dark circles can be caused by a number of factors, such as;
Environmental and Lifestyle Factors
Lack of sleep - the skin can become dull and lacklustre, allowing for the blood vessels beneath this fragile, thin skin to become more prominent
Stress - can also impact the quality of sleep you have. It also compromises the fragile capillaries that lay beneath the eyes, making them more visible
Dehydration - whether this be from not drinking enough fluids or from excessive alcohol consumption, both will have a negative effect on how the skin looks and feels under the eye area. Smoking also has a dehydrating effect within the body and skin so can exasperate the condition too.
Allergies - allergic reactions to eye products or hay fever related issues, nasal congestion or sinus related issues all tend to affect the skin under the eyes. Constant rubbing and friction of this delicate area can sensitise the skin.
Iron deficiencies - Anaemia can also be associated with dark circles.
Menstrual cycles - can also affect the prominence of under eye circles, due to the skin looking and feeling dull, interrupting sleep patterns, effecting mood and energy levels.
Sun damage - Pigmentation can sometimes be the cause of the darkness and change in skin colour.
Eye Strain - computer screens, long distance driving, blue light (from TVs and smart devices), contact lens wearers
Sluggish detoxification system (lymphatic and circulatory systems) - stagnant blood can collect under the eye area making the area darker in appearance and sometimes puffy due to the fluid retention.
Lack of exercise - exercise can improve circulation within the body so can also have an effect on the eye area.
Poor nutrition/diet - too much sugar and starch in the diet can contribute towards the appearance of dark under eye circles.
The Role of Genetics
The appearance of under eye dark circles can be down to a variety of hereditary conditions, such as, poor circulation, collagen production and skin tone.
General ageing will have an effect regarding the thinness of the skin around the eyes, allowing the capillaries and veins to become more visible.
Treatments and Solutions for...
1. Pigmentation
If your under eye circles are caused by a type of pigmentation like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, hyperpigmentation or Melasma, through either genetic predisposition, hormonal changes, medication or sun damage, suitable treatments can be advised by your dermatologists or GP.
Ingredients in skincare such as Vitamin C, Arbutin, Kojic acid and liquorice can help inhibit the production of melanin and work to lighten the pigmentation.
More invasive treatments such as chemical peels and laser light therapy could be an option, but must always be discussed with a specialist in that area of treatment.
Preventative Treatments
Over exposure to the sun without correct eye wear protection or sun factor protection, can result in the melanocytes producing the pigment melanin, which results in the skin becoming darker. Ensure that you choose an SPF that doesn't irritate the eye area and to wear suitable sunglasses to shield from the suns rays.
2. Treatments for dark circles caused by environmental and lifestyle factors
Ensure you are getting enough quality sleep
Gentle eye massage focusing on lymphatic drainage and stimulation of blood circulation
Applying cold compresses to the eyes can help to constrict blood vessels and soothe tired eyes
Stay hydrated and drink plenty of water
Use eye creams that help to strengthen and restore the skins barrier function. Look for key ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin c and e.
Apply an eye cream with added SPF protection
Caffeine in eye products
Independent studies have shown that topically applying caffeine to the eye area can help reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness.
The science behind this claim is that caffeine narrows the blood vessels, encouraging blood circulation to temporarily reduce puffiness and the appearance of dark circles.
3. Primers and Concealers for the eye area
There is a variety of make up solutions available that can help cover up the appearance of dark circles.
Below are a few make up artistry tips and tricks I have picked up along the way to help hide and disguise those tired looking eyes!
#1 Apply a skincare-make up hybrid eye primer
They usually contain skin brightening ingredients with light reflective technology.
I was introduced to the Becca Under Eye Brightening Corrector, by my lovely Mum, who is always on the hunt fo r the next best thing to disguise those pesky dark circles. This has definitely stood the test of time, and something I always go back to when I want extra coverage and brightness in the eye area. It prepares the skin before you apply your concealer, providing the perfect ‘backlight’ with its ‘light-reflecting illuminators’.
Another product I have sampled before is the Elemis Pro-Radiance Illuminating Eye Balm. This preps and primes the eye area. It contains ‘optical blurring powders to help reduce the appearance of dark circles’. It is also jam packed with skin loving ingredients such as Apricot Kernel Oil, Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid. A great go to everyday eye care saviour.
#2 Learn the technique of colour correcting
When applying the colour wheel method, orange and peachy tones are opposite the blue and violet tones. This means using a peach coloured correcting concealer can help cancel out a blue tinge under the eyes. Apply your usual concealer over the top and just like magic, those eye circles will diminish!
A great power duo to execute this look is the Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Corrector followed with a layer of the Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Concealer. Both are enriched with ingredients to treat the skin to a rich hydration boost, whilst the corrector also helps to neutralise any under eye discolouration.
#3 Apply your concealer correctly
Draw an upside down triangle beneath the eye with your colour correcting concealer, followed by your concealer. By using this technique, you help to effectively cover the affected area.
#4 Upgrade your concealer
Look to invest in a full coverage concealer that still has hydrating properties so it does not dry the skin out.
One of my favourites is by IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Concealer, it is waterproof, highly pigmented and has a combination of anti-ageing and hydrating skin ingredients, to ensure fine lines and wrinkles are less visible and dark circles are camouflaged.
I hope you have enjoyed this feature.
What do you do to help diminish the appearance of dark circles?
Please feel free to share any techniques or advice you have to help disguise those pesky dark circles!
