What’s the difference?
As we enter the autumnal months, our skin can enter a transitional phase.
Skin will often need a dose of serious hydration to help replenish, nourish and restore a moisture balance.
You may wonder if your skin is showing signs of dryness or dehydration as both can share some common skincare characteristics, however the causes are different.
Dryness is classified as a skin type
If you generally have dry skin it is thought that this is predominately a genetic factor. Dry skin is caused by having a lack of oil or a compromised lipid matrix. This lipid matrix consists of cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. This mix of lipids and sebum will ensure a healthy, functioning skin barrier. If this is compromised the skin barrier is seen as vulnerable or weakened, the classic signs of a dry skin will prevail.
The skin may feel tight, itchy, uncomfortable and rough while looking flaky, dull and in extreme cases red and inflamed.
Dehydration is a skin condition and can effect any skin type
Dehydration will occur when the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum lacks water (moisture). As a result an over compensation of sebum can be produced to lubricate the skin, however, this can lead to excess oil, breakouts and irritation on the skin.
Environmental factors, lifestyle habits, diet, makeup, incorrect product use and even the weather are all culprits of a dehydrated, parched skin.
As we transition into cooler months, we will be subjecting our skin to the harsh outside elements (cold air, wind) whilst turning on the heating indoors, which can cause moisture to evaporate from the skin.
The party season of November and December can also cause an imbalance with our skin. Excess alcohol consumption and smoking combined with late nights and coffee fuelled mornings, whilst throwing into the mix, poor sleep quality and an unbalanced diet can all contribute towards dehydration.
Characteristics of a dehydrated skin are similar to that of a dry skin (see above), however, other ways to identify this skin condition can be with an increase in the appearance of fine lines and surface wrinkles. Dark circles under the eyes that can also appear sunken.
The Moisturiser Test
You can use the application of your moisturiser as an indication to see if your skin is dry (lacking oil) or dehydrated (lacking water).
If your moisturiser absorbs quickly, leaving you wanting to go in applying another layer immediately, this may indicate that your skin is thirsty ~ dehydrated, and that you need to incorporate some lifestyle changes like; increasing your water intake to replenish the body from the inside out whilst reducing alcohol, caffeine, salty foods, sugar and refined carbohydrates.
Did you know.....once your thirsty you have already been clinically dehydrated for 20 minutes
If you apply your moisturiser and you find it doesn’t sit right because your skin is flaky and feels rough to touch, the moisturiser may actually be having trouble absorbing. This will lead to the assumption your skin is dry and the barrier function has been compromised.
Does drinking water equate to a hydrated skin?
Maintaining our internal water balance is absolutely vital for our health and survival.
We are always told to make sure we drink enough water. Eight, 8oz glasses a day to be precise (as recommended by the nhs website).
But what impact will it have on our skin?
The main chemical component of the body is water, the essential building blocks of our internal environment.
On average the human body will be made up of 50-65% water. The water within our bodies can be found in three key places; within our cells, in the space between our cells and our blood.
If we are not consuming enough water, these cells within our body can become dehydrated, this can potentially effect the way our systems filter and flush out toxins. Therefore, if we remain well hydrated on a cellular level, the bodies systems can work at their optimal levels, allowing the detoxification process to function efficiently.
Surprisingly, there is a lack of research regarding the benefits of drinking water to promote a healthy, radiant complexion. However,we know the importance of consuming water will effect the overall health and wellbeing of our mind and body
To maintain a healthy skin function, you need to maintain a balanced diet full of antioxidants and foods rich in omega 3 (essential fatty acids) which in turn can encourage a healthy complexion that we usually determine as one that is glowing and radiant. Whilst we also need to avoid excess sun exposure, the use of abrasive treatments and products that can effect the health of our skin.
How to Care for and Restore Balance
Dry Skin Type
• Use warm or tepid water when bathing and removing make up or product from the skin. Very hot water will remove the skins natural oils, leaving it feeling parched and looking red
• Reach for gentle, non-stripping ingredients and for products that are preferably fragrance-free. Ensure your cleanser is mild and respects the pH balance of the skins acid mantle
• Apply conditioning toners over the skin. Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid (HA) are key ingredients to look out for • Gently exfoliate using a mild AHA/BHA or PHA product (these are acids that gently dissolve dead skin cells without a mechanical action) to ensure a smoother skin surface
• Use a hydrating moisturiser fairly soon after cleansing and toning to help lock in moisture, helping to reduce that ‘tight’ skin feeling. Skincare that has been infused with ceramides will also help to restrengthen the skin barrier function.
• Include skin nourishing plant oils as they contain vital lipids and antioxidants to help restore the skin barrier.
• Adding a humidifier to your room will add moisture to the air which has been shown to help comfort a dry skin type
• Try to avoid that transition from a cold environment into a central heated or air conditioned environment to often, as it can irritate and impair the skins protective surface
Dehydrated Skin Condition
• Still ensure you consume water. We should be approximately consuming 2 litres a day, more if you par take in exercise or are exposed to a warmer climate, to replenish the water you lose through sweating.
• Eat water rich foods like watermelon, cucumber, iceberg lettuce, celery and strawberries
• Look for skincare that has the ingredients that retain and lock moisture in like; hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid. These two ingredients will bind to water and retain the moisture in the skin, increasing hydration levels. PHA (poly hydroxy acid) this ingredient is a humectant.
Those with a dehydrated skin concern will benefit from using a collection of skincare featuring these key ingredients.
An increase in skin moisture will help soften fine lines and surface wrinkles, allowing the skin to appear and feel smoother.
• Apply conditioning toners over the skin. Glycerin is a key ingredient to look for.
• Do not use abrasive scrubs to exfoliate the skin use a mild glycolic acid toner every few days to remove surface dead skin cells and encourage skin renewal
• Serums are products that you apply before your moisturiser. Choose a targeted serum that contains a combination of antioxidants like vitamin c or vitamin e, both of which will help repair and replenish the skin, enhancing the skins texture. Also look for star ingredients Hyaluronic or Polyglutamic acids!
I hope this has helped to clarify a few points regarding dry skin and dehydrated skin and ways in which you can look to enhance skin health.
