With the increased desire to educate ourselves on all things ingredient related, I thought I would write a summary of each of the acids that we see on the ingredient profiles of our favourite products.
Once we educate ourselves we can start to understand the specific ingredients we require to treat a certain skin type and/or conditions.
Lets start with the array of acids that saturate the current skincare market.
The word ‘acid’ in itself can sound quite scary and something you may think would be a harsh ingredient to incorporate into your routine. However, this is not the case once you know which acid or acids are right for you.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids ~ AHAs
AHAs are naturally occurring acids that have exfoliating properties.
They are classified as a chemical exfoliation process that is seen as an alternative to manual (physical scrub) exfoliation.
An increase of cellular turnover activity is initiated, the acids work to dissolve the excess sebum, lipids and fatty acids that can build up and adhere between our surface skin cells. The use of these acids will result in a smoother, brighter complexion.
They are available in an array of percentage strengths for ’at home use’ with professional in-salon treatment peels that can harness a 70% strength.
AHAs are water soluble. In general they do not penetrate deeply beneath the skin’s surface. The activity of the ingredient will usually work on the outer most skin surface (keratin layer).
AHAs are known to cause sun sensitivity. A suitable daily SPF should be worn at all times when treating the skin with this ingredient and any ingredients that encourages a rapid cell turnover.
They also possess humectant qualities and are considered to have hydrating benefits for the skin.
Some studies have shown that collagen production is also stimulated through the use of AHAs.
Treats and addresses
+ Fine lines
+ Acne Scaring
+ Hyperpigmentation
+ Uneven skin tone and texture
Types of AHAs Many are derived from natural sugars, with glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk or fruit sugars)
- Glycolic Acid
Has the smallest molecular size making it effective at penetrating the skin. This is the acid type that stimulates fibroblast cells to enhance collagen production. It also encourages cell turnover reducing the appearance of fine lines. This acid does promote sun sensitivity. Avoid sensitive and reactive skin conditions.
- Lactic Acid
This acid type can be synthetically formulated to ensure the stability of the ingredient. Ideal for dry and sensitive skin types. This acid gently dissolves the sticky sebum that can bind skin cells together which can cause the skin turnover rate to slow down. A gentle exfoliator with added moisturising properties.
- Mandelic Acid
Derived from bitter almonds. A gentle form of an AHA that is slower to act and is milder, due to its larger molecular size. Ideal for sensitive or acne prone skin conditions due to its antibacterial qualities.
- Malic Acid
Derived from the fruit sugars of apples. Great for brightening the skin and smoothing texture. It is also a humectant and helps add moisture to the skin.
- Tartaric Acid
Naturally found in grapes and bananas. It possesses additional antioxidant qualities. Is thought of as a gentle form of exfoliation.
Advice when using leave on AHA products
• Ensure your skin is completely dry when applying AHA based products that are designed to be left on the skin for a duration of time before washing off. This will minimise any unnecessary sensitivity and reactivity from the skin
• AHAs should not be used on inflamed or infected skin conditions
I hope you found this journal entry guide to AHAs informative and if there is anything I have missed or you would like more information on please comment below and il be sure to get back to you.
Lindsay x
