This feature follows on from my last blog post where we discovered how to identify skin types and skin conditions. Once you are empowered with this information you can then start to build a skin care routine to answer those concerns and needs.
This feature will initially introduce you to a step by step minimal skin care routine and how to advance to a specialised routine. If your new to the world of skincare, overwhelmed by the amount of products available, or want to review your current routine as your not achieving the results you desire then continue to read on....
This post is dedicated to going back to the basic steps of skincare. Educating you on the essentials of what your skin may need to provide an effective but streamlined routine.
The Benefits of a Simplified Routine
A simplified routine will be more realistic to follow and initially commit to. By layering a variety of products, over exfoliating and using too many active ingredients can result in redness, sensitivity and congestion. These are signs that your skin barrier has been over compromised (damaged).
Your skin is definitely a reflection of what is going on in the inside but can also become reactive to what you apply to the surface.
My 4 key steps include;
Cleanse ~ Tone (treat) ~ Moisturise ~ Protect
Ideally it’s better to start with a minimum of 4 products (3 in the evening). This will give you the foundations of a good routine.
Once you have established a good basic routine, you can then start to include serums formulated with active ingredients to target specific skin conditions and concerns.
Below is an overview of a skincare routine, primarily based upon the 3 step cleanse, tone/treat and moisturise routine, which most of us are familiar with.
What you might not be familiar with is the daily use of SPF. This should be the protection step in your skincare routine as this is your first defence against the signs of premature skin ageing; lines and wrinkles (due to the breakdown of collagen & elastin), pigmentation and skin cancer.
Morning Routine
Cleanse
This step will allow you to remove any dead skin that has naturally shed whilst you have been sleeping as well as any overnight oil production. It also adjusts the pH of the skin so the skincare steps that follow can perform optimally on the skin. Choose a cleanser that reflects your skin type and condition.
Oily and combination skins - you may prefer to use a foaming cleanser that eliminates any excess oil and targets congestion. I recommend Cera Ve Foaming Cleanser and their SA Smoothing Cleanser.
Normal, dry, mature skin - hydrating and emulsifying cleansers help to replenish and nourish the skin. I recommended REN Perfect Canvas Clean Jelly Oil Cleanser, The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser and Plenaire Rose Jelly Cleanser.
These all have a 3 phase cleansing effect starting as a cream or jelly, then once massaged it turns into an oil. When water is added it emulsifies into a milky texture.
Sensitive Skin - cream and milk formulas can feel cooling and non irritating. I recommend REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk or Cera Ve Hydrating Cleanser. Kate Somerville’s Goat Milk Cleanser is also ultra soothing.
Toner
The toning step can initially be about adding hydration to your skin. All skin types can benefit from ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin. I recommend Toleriane Ultra 8 by La Roche Posay. It is formulated for sensitive or allergic-prone skin. It combines thermal water with 8 essential ingredients for immediate and long-lasting hydration.
Bybi Beauty Mega Mist is also great for delivering a boost of hydration with its Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe vera, algae and pomegranate formulation to help soothe the skin.
Moisturise
Moisturisers have evolved over the years with a complexity of ingredients and textures available to us.
Moisturising is an essential part of your routine. It helps maintain hydration levels and also protects and maintains the skins essential functions. Even if you have an oily skin type, you should never skip this step, as the skin can become dehydrated.
Look out for key ingredients that reinforce the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF) to ensure skin remains healthy, hydrated and smooth. NMF are naturally-occurring humectants within the top layer of skin. They are essential for appropriate stratum corneum hydration (the upper most layer of your skin) and help prevent TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss).
Ingredients; amino acids, peptides, ceramides, triglycerides, glycerin, urea, lactate and Hyaluronic Acid will all contribute to the protection and balancing of the natural skin processes whilst simultaneously rebuilding the moisture level.
Sun Protection Factor
Applying a broad spectrum suncream with a high protection factor of at least 30 (preferably SPF 50) will be your first step in protecting your skin.
Sunscreen will minimizes the penetration of UV rays into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for accelerated skin ageing and UVB rays cause the skin to burn, producing an inflammatory skin response resulting in skin damage.
Sunscreen is very effective in reducing the risk of developing a variety of skin cancers, especially melanoma.
Applying a good quality sunscreen everyday is crucial to the maintenance of a healthy skin. It is the best skincare product to prevent premature skin ageing - fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and the breakdown of collagen and elastin, which can effect skin tone and cause texture irregularities.
Sunscreen Recommendations
REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF30 Mattifying Broad Spectrum Face Sunscreen
Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30
HELIOCARE 360° Gel Oil Free SPF 50
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream
Glossier Invisible Shield SPF 30
Evening Routine
Double Cleanse
After your skin has been exposed to a number of daily elements such as pollution and bacteria, it is of utmost importance to ensure you throughly cleanse your skin from these impurities as well as any make up you may have applied and sunscreen.
First Cleanse
I recommend using an oil or balm cleanser to really help dissolve away that first layer of impurities.
My newest discovery in cleansers are the formulations with 3 phases of cleansing. They start as a jelly or cream, transform to an oil then emulsify into a milky texture.
These are very effective at removing all traces of make up and sunscreen (see morning cleanse for recommendations).
The Elemis Omega Rich Cleansing Oil, Votary Cleansing Oil and Fais Cleanse It Cleansing Oil are all great oil based options for your first cleanse.
Second Cleanse
The second cleanse will be the one that treats the skin and targets any concerns you may have.
Refer back to the Morning Routine Cleanse options.
Tone
Refer back to the Morning Routine ‘Tone’ section.
Moisturise
You can apply the same day cream as long as it doesn’t contain an SPF as this protection is not needed at night. However, most night creams are positioned to be more nurturing with a richer texture and the additional antioxidant ingredients to help repair any damage that has been caused by oxidative stress. Night time is when your skin naturally recovers, regenerates and renews itself ~ ready for the next day.
Specialised Skin Care Routine
In the image below, I have added some additional key steps. These products allow you to design a routine that’s bespoke to you, addressing your skin concerns and conditions further, with treatments that are results driven.
Additional Product Options
Treatment Toner
At this step you may want to alternate your soothing hydrating toners with one that contains a chemical exfoliating ingredient. These are usually in the form of acids or enzymes that dissolve surface dead skin cells to reveal a smoother, brighter complexion.
Exfoliating Toners are great for;
diminishing the signs of ageing
targeting congestion
improving the appearance of uneven skin tone
hydrating the skin
smoothing rough skin
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are water soluble and are effective at breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells leaving the skin feeling smooth and resurfaced. Glycolic and Lactic acids are the most researched AHAs and are proven to provide hydration to the skin as well as exfoliation. Other AHAs are Malic, Tartaric, Citric and Mandelic.
I recommend REN Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic and PIXI Beauty Glow Tonic.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) also known as salicylic acid. They are oil soluble and anti-microbial; targeting the inner pore lining, clearing them out for a deeper cleanse. This type of acid is perfect for oilier skin types and skin prone to congestion. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant and Aveda Botanical Kinetics Liquid Exfoliant are great choices.
PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acids) are amazing for sensitive skin types. They hold the same properties as AHAs but the molecule is larger, which means the skin is more tolerant providing a reduced chance of sensitivity. I highly recommend The Inkey List PHA. Skincare Tip You also want your acids to come in at a pH level of 3 to 4 - research has discovered they perform optimally on the skin at this level.
Serums
This is where you want to invest in your skincare.
Serums are formulated to target specific skin conditions with higher concentrations of active ingredients that treat multiple layers of the skin, due to the smaller molecular compounds.
Morning
Adding a serum into your morning routine should focus on enhanced protection and maintenance of hydration levels as our skin is exposed to many environmental aggressors that can upset the skin.
Look for serums that possess antioxidant ingredients. For example; vitamin C and vitamin E. Hydration ingredients and formulations that focus on repairing the skin barrier, such as Hyaluronic Acid, Poly glutamic Acid, Beta Glucan, Vitamin B5, Niacinamide, Ceramides and peptides are a good place to start when deciphering an inci list. Evening
When choosing a night time serum, any of the above mentioned ingredients would be ideal, however, you may also want to look at investing in a vitamin A serum. Vitamin A, is also known as retinal, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinoic acid.
It is one of the most researched and clinically proven molecule to have an effect on the skin.
Vitamin A has the ability to;
influence cells to behave in a younger, healthier way, leaving skin looking youthful and more radiant.
improve problematic skin conditions such as acne by helping to normalise oil production
reduce the appearance of pigmentation, normalising the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays a vital role in the production of melanin
stimulate fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen in the dermis), leaving skin looking firmer
promote and maintain a healthy dermis and epidermis due to its moisturising abilities
promote cell renewal and speed up the recovery of the skin, reducing skin breakouts
Medik8 have a throughly effective range of Vitamin A products that vary in different strengths and are formulated with ingredients that work harmoniously with the vitamin A so the skin can tolerate the molecule, reducing any sensitivity that can sometimes occur. Their Intelligent Retinol and Crystal Retinals are a good place to start.
Always follow instructions for best results.
A natural alternative to Vitamin A is bakuchiol, a powerful plant-based ingredient that’s perfect for sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol has hydrating properties as well as reducing the appearance of wrinkles, increasing skin firmness, and reducing the appearance of pores. It also inhibits the skin’s inflammatory response, reducing skin sensitivity.
This could be an ideal option if you want to target the above concerns but your skin is known to be sensitive and reactive.
Alternatively you could also include an AHA or BHA serum that you leave on as an over night skin renewal treatment.
Remember these ingredients encourage cell turnover, so upon waking the skin will look and feel renewed.
They increases collagen production, improve elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles & fine lines. It will leave the skin brighter, softer, visibly toned, and will enhance the overall complexion.
My current favourite is Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos™ Night Serum. It has a combination of 12% AHA + BHA. This, along with its high-tech gel formulation and ideal pH level of 3.8-4.0, sinks into the skin for maximum absorption.
Skincare Tip Consistency is key when adding an active based serum. Vitamin A can take up to 12 weeks to see a noticeable change to the skin.
You will only see the cumulative effect when using ingredients over a period of time so be patient.
Always wear your daily SPF especially when using Vitamin A and AHAs,BHAs & PHA as they sensitise the skin to UV rays.
Eye Care
You may choose to invest in an eye cream or serum that focuses on repairing and restoring hydration and minimises the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
This step allows you to become more mindful of the delicate nature of the eye area. The skin is much thinner in this area, which can often show the stresses of ageing first.
Look for ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid, peptides, Ceramides and Omega Oils.
Eye creams formulated with retinol are ideal for addressing lines and wrinkles.
Additional Skin Boosting Treatments
Facial Oils
Facial oils have skin replenishing and rebalancing properties, delivering valuable nutrition needed for healthy skin.
They can be used instead of your moisturiser. You may even add a couple of drops into your moisturiser to enhance and boost nourishment.
Facial oils provide the perfect slip when performing an at home facial massage too!
Our skin is composed of lipids responsible for preventing dehydration and retaining moisture. However, as our skin matures it produces less oils. This can compromise the skin and how it performs, which is where facial oils come into their own.
Dry skin needs an oil rich in omegas and fatty acids. Grape Seed, Vitamin E, Squalane, Borage, Marula, Jojoba and Avocado are great options. These are also great options for sensitive skin as they help to reinforce the skin’s barrier function.
Oily skin needs light, absorbent oils. It is a myth that oily skins should stay clear of oils, it’s all about the right oil to treat the imbalances of an oily skin. Jojoba is my first choice as it closely resembles the skin’s sebum which can help restore balance. Rosehip, Squalane, Kukui and Buckthorn help to control sebum production.
Exfoliators
There are two key types of exfoliation. Chemical and physical. As explained above, you can slot in chemical exfoliation - which come in the form of your AHAs, BHAs and PHAs through your exfoliating toning step or as a serum.
Fruit enzymes can also provide a chemical exfoliating action on the skin. One of my all time favourites is the Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel.
It uses Papaya and Papain to dissolve dead skin cells. It is a unique, non-granular exfoliating cream containing nourishing Milk Protein, Anti-Oxidant-rich Vitamin E and Marine Algae to moisturise, repair and protect the skin.
A physical exfoliator will actively remove surface dead skin cells by buffering them off the surface of the skin, increasing micro circulation.
A skin kind option is Elemis’ Gentle Rose Exfoliator. Containing smooth micro-spherical jojoba beads and hydrating absolute of Moroccan rose to buff away dead skin, whilst leaving skin feeling hydrated and conditioned. I highly recommend using exfoliating powders. They help to remove dulling surface debris and even out your skin tone. A brighter, smoother skin is revealed and they can be gentle enough to use on a daily basis.
I have currently introduced the Good Molecules Pineapple Exfoliating Powder which is formulated with fruit enzymes, vitamin C and rice powders to gently exfoliate. You decanter a teaspoon into the palm of your hand and mix with water to form an exfoliating paste. Use gentle circular motions to help lift away dead skin cells. The combination of the rice powders and fruit enzymes give a combined effect of both physical and chemical exfoliation in a controlled environment.
Another alternative is the Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant. Rice-based powder activates upon contact with water, releasing Papain, Salicylic Acid and Rice Enzymes to polish skin.
Kate Somerville, Exfolikate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment also uses a blend of chemical and physical exfoliators. The formula is made up of grains and botanical ingredient honey, papaya and pumpkin ferment.
Skincare Tip Do not over exfoliate the skin as this can lead to an impaired skin barrier, resulting in inflammation and sensitivity.
Sensitive skin may benefit from exfoliating as little as once every 7 days, while other skin types may benefit from exfoliating 3-4x a week.
Mature skin may increase the frequency of their exfoliation step, as when we age our skin cell turnover rate slows down.
It will depend on your skin type and skin sensitivity to how often your skin can tolerate exfoliation.
Masks
Masks are available in many different textures and formats. From cream to clay based, to leave on masks, peel off masks and sheet masks each come with their own unique actions.
I think masks can enable us to create 10 minutes of “me time” where one can use their skincare products as self-care tools. A reminder to ourselves that taking time out to nourish and rebalance our skin can also be a reflection of our wellbeing.
Masks are a great way to infuse skin with nourishing ingredients to help restore moisture levels and soothe dry or sensitive skin conditions.
Clay based and charcoal masks are ideal for skin that is prone to congestion and excess oil. They help to draw out impurities and absorb oil to leave the skin feeling renewed and refreshed.
For skin requiring a radiance boost, masks with antioxidants, skin brightening ingredients and exfoliating acids can double up as leave on masks to renew, resurface and even out skin tone.
Skincare Tip Why not try multi masking where you apply more than one mask. Treat specific areas with different masks to customise your own masking experience. For example apply a clay based mask to your t-zone (forehead, nose and chin) to absorb oil and impurities and a creamy hydrating moisture mask to plump up the cheek and neck area.
