What is congestion?
A combination of oil, dead skin cells, tiny hairs, dirt, debris and bacteria can leave the skin feeling bumpy and rough. Congestion will usually accumulates on the t-zone (forehead, nose and chin) but can also be found on the cheeks.
Identifying congestion
Trace clean fingers over dry cleansed skin
Do you notice anything?
If you skin texture feels bumpy and uneven it could mean that your pores are blocked (congested). When you take a closer look you may recognise these as whiteheads (closed comedones) or blackheads (open comedones).
Both whiteheads and blackheads are caused by the mix of oil, dead skin cells, dirt and bacteria but both form differently. A whitehead (closed comedones) will literally appear at the surface of the skin, a thin layer of skin over the top of the pore will top the congestion from oxidising and remain closed. Inflammation can often occur at the sight of a whitehead, they can feel tender and have some redness. It is recommended that you do not try to squeeze these as further inflammation can occur.
While a blackhead (open comedones), remains unsealed and the congestion usually becomes oxidised, the exposed surface will appear black or brown. These are easier to treat and remove as specific ingredients can dissolve what’s in the pore.
The causes
Overactive sebaceous glands due to hormonal imbalances, lifestyle influences, unsuitable skincare products, insufficient or over exfoliation, impaired skin barrier, incorrect removal of spf and make up products. Even down to ensuring your make up tools are regularly cleaned and hygienically stored.
How should I treat congestion?
Cleansing is the first step!
Ensure you have a through cleansing step within your routine and you are effectively but gently removing all traces of pollution, spf, make up and bacteria. Double cleansing is always a good idea!
How often you add an exfoliation step to your routine will depend on your skin type remember; try not to take an aggressive approach.
How to introduce an AHA/BHA Blended product into your skincare regime
Exfoliating Acids
Using a blend of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) like lactic & glycolic to exfoliate the surface of the skin and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) in the form of salicylic will also help to dissolve surface skin cells and get to work at diminishing congestion inside the pores. As a result of cell turnover the skin will look visibly smoother and feel less bumpy. It will help control excess sebum production.
Here are my top 3 that I have used over the last year to help keep my congestion at bay.
I do strongly recommend you always do a patch test to ensure there is no unwanted reaction.
You may experience a tingling sensation with each of these products due to the activity the acids have on the skin.
Lixirskin Night Switch BHA/AHA 10%
A combination of Lactic Acid to improve hydration, Azeliac Acid to help control sebum
production and Salicylic Acid which has antibacterial properties and helps dissolve congestion within the pores.
How to use
1. Apply 1-2 pumps to the affected areas and follow with lixirskin Universal Emulsion (moisturiser). They advise to use this for three weeks before resting the skin for 3 days then switching to another Night Switch available in their range then going back to the Night Switch BHA/AHA to continue with treatment until the desired result is achieved.
2. You can also use this as a mask. Apply 3 pumps on dry skin and leave for up to 10 minutes before rinsing off.
Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum pH 3.8
A high tech AHA/BHA gel that is formulated with Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid and Citric Acid. Blended with raspberry extract and horse chestnut this overnight gel will regulate cell renewal, refine, resurface and retexturise the skin. Congestion is dramatically reduced whilst also working on targeting fine lines, wrinkles and skin tone.
How to use
1. Apply 1-2 pumps to clean dry skin or areas of concern. Follow with a hydrating skin conditioning oil. Some tingling may occur but should subside.
Deceim The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution pH 3.6
This deep red liquid has a high percentage of actives;
Alpha Hydroxy Acids 30%(Glycolic/Lactic/Tartaric/Citric),
Beta Hydroxy Acid 2%
(Salicylic Acid)
Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer, Vitamin B5, Black Carrot and Tasmanian Pepperberry are also blended in this formula.
This solution offers deeper exfoliation to help fight visible blemishes and for improved skin radiance.
How to use
Designed to use as a mask. Apply to clean dry skin. Apply a thin layer over the face and concerned areas avoiding the eyes. Leave on for no longer than 10 minutes. Rinse throughly with lukewarm waters and follow with a hydrating serum and moisturiser. It is suggested to use no more than twice a week.
What else could I use?
Retinol - along with other forms of vitamin A, this ingredient will greatly refine the skins texture by enhancing cell renewal and reducing excess oil production. Fibroblasts will also be stimulated to help plump the skin by boosting protein production, adding volume and firmness to the skin.
Hydration is key
Always ensure you replenish the skin with a hydrating moisturising medium of your choice to help maintain hydration levels. I like to use oils rich in vitamin e, apricot oils and marula oils that aid in nourishment and having soothing elements. Physical exfoliation
Using a gentle physical exfoliant with small spherical, granular particles can help buff away excess dead skin cells.
I recommend;
Origins Original Skin Retexturising Mask
Dermalogica Microexfoliant
Both are gentle but effective and can be used on a weekly basis.
SPF - Sun Protection Factor
When using ingredients that increase cell turnover it is highly important to also protect the skin when you are in sunlight. Always use an spf layered over the top of your moisturiser to ensure you are protecting your complexion and those new skin cells as well as preventing unwanted sensitivity.
